On the edge of a boat anchored off the coast of Belize, sharks glide purposefully through the clear waters below. I watch in awe, fascinated by their movements. Then I take a deep breath and plunge in to join them.
Apparently there is no real danger as they are passive nurse sharks that are mostly harmless to humans. Well, that’s what the captain says and keeps assuring us that if we swim alongside them, they won’t bite. But the red life jacket I wore over my bathing suit (I’m a bad swimmer) will surely make me some kind of target…
It was far too brief an encounter, however, as the sharks quickly realize that there are none of the expected treats that are often thrown at them, and they scatter.
Angella Johnson began her five-day tour of Belize in Caye Caulker, a “little strip of paradise” located 20 miles from the mainland (pictured).
“Go Slow” is the local motto in Caye Caulker, Angella learned
Still, I felt intoxicated by this delicious precursor to the rich marine life I would see during my five days in Belize. Like most of us, I haven’t been on vacation in two years and wanted to feel refreshed from my first trip abroad. New experiences were on the wish list. I longed to feel alive again, and Belize turned out to be the perfect place to do it.
snorkeling? Tick. Mayan caves? Tick. Whether you’re looking for scenic jungle views or laid-back beach life, this small Central American country the size of Wales has something for visitors of all ages.
Snorkeling in the balmy waters of Hol Chan Marine Reserve, a protected area within 184 miles of colorful coral reefs, remains a highlight of my visit. The Belize Barrier Reef is the second largest in the world – Australia’s is larger but not as well preserved – and one of the best places to dive or snorkel.
Surprisingly, few people know much about this former British colony, tucked away between Guatemala and Mexico on the shores of the Caribbean Sea and still wonderfully unspoilt.
Belize, formerly British Honduras, gained independence in 1981. English remains the official language, closely followed by Spanish, and Queen Elizabeth is their nominal head of state. This year Belize celebrates its 10,000th anniversary. Anniversary of the reef, which is a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Belize is home to the Great Blue Hole, a mysterious crater where you can snorkel with sharks or dive to explore its stalactite-covered depths
Walked in: Angella swam with nurse sharks (pictured), which are generally harmless to humans
And there is a lot worth protecting here. This spectacular ecosystem is home to coastal lagoons, atolls, mangrove forests, sea turtles and more than 500 species of fish. It’s also home to the Great Blue Hole, a mysterious crater where you can snorkel with sharks or dive to explore its stalactite-covered depths. But the best way to capture his majesty is from the air.
This huge underwater hole is one of nature’s inexplicable wonders, measuring more than 1,000 feet in diameter and 400 feet deep.
Look out the window of a tiny Cessna plane and it seems to be staring back, like a cyclops from the depths of the ocean. There are some experiences in life that are never forgotten and this was definitely one.
According to Angella, Caye Caulker isn’t as commercial as nearby Ambergris Caye (pictured above).
I flew to Caye (pronounced “Key”) Caulker, a little strip of paradise 20 miles from the mainland and home to the Barefoot Caye Caulker Hotel, my base for three nights. The ethos here is relaxed. There are no cars, only golf carts and bicycles. “Go Slow” is the local motto, Keith, the young man with dreadlocks who runs Café By The Beach, reminded me of that early one morning, so I willingly sat down to sip a delicious coffee and watch the sunrise.
Though Caulker isn’t as commercial as nearby Ambergris Caye, it’s a lively place with bars, shops, and restaurants, so don’t expect quiet nights.
For a quieter spot on the mainland, the Hidden Valley Inn And Reserve is balm for both body and soul. It lies deep within the beautiful Mountain Pine Ridge Forest, a 7,200-acre oasis. At the end of a rough dirt road you will find an impressive colonial style lodge surrounded by lush gardens. There’s even a coffee grove that they use to make their own brew.
On the mainland, Angella stayed at the Hidden Valley Inn And Reserve, which she describes as “a balm for both body and soul.” Above is one of the inn’s suites
Guests at the Hidden Valley Inn And Reserve can enjoy coffee harvested from the property’s coffee grove
Hidden Valley Inn And Reserve nestles deep within beautiful Mountain Pine Ridge Forest, a 7,200-acre oasis (above).
Above is the entrance to the famous Actun Tunichil Muknal Caves deep in the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve. “To get there, it’s a bit of a struggle to walk down a jungle trail,” says Angella
Just 12 cottages are scattered around a main house, each richly appointed with dark mahogany furniture and a stone fireplace that I took full advantage of on cool mountain nights.
Here, between ridges and valleys, you can reconnect with nature on more than 90 miles of hiking and biking trails or enjoy the spa treatments. It’s also a twitcher’s delight, with hundreds of species to discover. After hiking along a creek so clear I was tempted to drink the water, it was a delight to sit back in the hot tub with a relaxing cocktail.
Belize is rich in relics of an ancient Mayan civilization. One of the most revered is the famous cave Actun Tunichil Muknal deep in the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve. The way there is a bit tedious over a jungle path. I’m not the fittest, but even for me the 45 minute hike with river crossings is only moderately challenging.
Our guided group of seven (including two elderly Americans) arrive at the entrance of the caves once used for ritual sacrifice, eager to delve into their brutal history. Then it’s two hours of climbing over rocks and squeezing through narrow passages. It is challenging but satisfying to reach the main atrium, where I am struck by the eerie sight of human remains left half-buried in their undisturbed state since about 580 AD. The most famous of them is a calcified teenager whose bones sparkle like crystals. It is a breathtaking yet macabre sight.
“Belize is rich in relics of an ancient Mayan civilization,” says Angella. Above is a Mayan temple in the Lamanai Archaeological Reserve
Angella climbed the steep staircase to El Castillo, the largest ruin at the Xunantunich archaeological site (pictured)
My immersion in this rich history continues the next day with a visit to the Xunantunich archaeological site. Built on limestone with more than 25 temples and palaces, the tallest, El Castillo, is 130 feet tall, so I carefully climb the crumbling steps for panoramic views over miles of treetops, from where on a clear day you can see Guatemala .
From the moment I arrived in this warm and welcoming country I felt like I was in a special place and I left with a lingering desire to return for a longer stay.
And any country that has posters thanking teachers for their hard work is definitely worth checking out in my book.
